wyo7200
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Dysfunctional Veteran
Posts: 41
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Post by wyo7200 on May 3, 2015 17:20:58 GMT -7
I got the plans from this thread- 68forums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=54267however, it has some errors in them. Next time I log into my computer I'll grab the "tips and corrections" I've done for mine. I was able to get most of the parts locally. Had to order the motors, controls and power supply.
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Post by spartan260 on May 3, 2015 19:26:15 GMT -7
Thanks, that's the same thread that I found when I googled it. Post up the corrections when you get a chance.
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Post by spartan260 on May 4, 2015 14:51:42 GMT -7
I started working on this a little bit today, I can see how you may have had some problems, the prints leave a little to be desired. I am going to design this in solidworks so I can play around with the design before building anything... really for no better reason than I think it will be fun, I'm sure its way over kill. Here is a pic of the rough model, I obviously don't have any components in there yet.
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wyo7200
New Member
Dysfunctional Veteran
Posts: 41
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Post by wyo7200 on May 4, 2015 18:22:27 GMT -7
Awesome! I trusted the plans and just started cutting. Went to dry fit everything and was left with some gaps. Sorry I didn't get to the plans last night-
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1. You'll be an inch or two short using his 12x12 dimensions. He does say that he whacked the top off to be even, but I think that changes his measurements for his holes. 2. I dont know if he measured to the center for his holes. I'm thinking he may have measured to the far edge of the hole. 1.a. I cut the front piece longer 12x13 1/2 so that it covers the sides and looks cleaner. I cut the top and bottom edges of the front piece with a 17 degree angle, as well as the front edge of the top and bottom pieces. This matches the angled sides. 1.b. His instructions say 4 x 6 3/4 sides, (which I cut by cutting the angle first, and then flipping the piece over and cutting about an inch off the end to make the other 4 x 6 3/4's. Later in his thread he admitted that it should be 5 3/4- not 6. Too late for me. 2. The back piece could be off too. I cut mine to 12x11 so that it will fit between the sides and top and bottom. 3. You can use mdf for the top, no need to overlay kydex or plexiglass material. Just route out the spaces to accommodate the snaps and controls. 4. My motors used 1/4x20 couplers. Had to return all the 5/16 washers and cap screws and get 1/4x20. Looks like the motor is smiling. The motor mounts are scrap aluminum from cutting the hopper pieces. 4.a. Use a 6mm or 8mm brill bit to drill out the aluminum coupler. Provides a much better fit over the motor shaft.
5. Get some double sided carpet tape to help hold things together while positioning and marking cuts. 6. Instead of using the cake pan to trace the circle onto the case hopper plate, trace the pans diameter onto a sheet of paper and cut out the circle. Tape it the front of the annealer and align the hopper plate to the upper right corner overlapping the paper. Mark the overlapping edges on the paper. Remove everything and transfer the marked circle (plus an 1/8") back onto the hopper plate. 7. A 4" threaded rod will work for the torch holder. 8. I used a 3/4" aluminum track on its end to mount my motor instead of 50 washers. 9. Get a power cord that has a ground. 10. Depending on what motor you get, may be a good idea to get some 2.8 micro female spade adapters to you can hook up the power. 11. If you don't want to cut the cake pan, Id suggest using cardboard for spacers. Saw one guy on the 68forum order a 6" aluminum circle for $20. That is a lot of weight on the motor and I doubt that it will work like he thinks it will. 12. Get a 1 1/2" or 2" coupler and cut it to length so you dont have to use washers to space the pan from rubbing on the face. 13. If you can, secure a dremels cutting disc a little higher than 1 1/4 inches from the table- I used the dremel press-stand. Start the cut from the inside of the pan and rotate the pan around the disc. This will ensure the cut is even and keep some of that aluminum dust contained. I dont think you will be able to cut it with snips. The stuff is hard for aluminum. 14. Be sure to flip the 220V to 110V on your power block of it has one. 15. I added a fan from a computer to help air circulate into the box and out of the top vents I routed into the back piece. 16. Always pre-drill your screw holes when working with MDF. 17. Get a on / off toggle switch- (or just set the dials to zero) the motor controls automatically turn on whenever the unit is plugged in. 18. Sand the edges of the drum. It will scratch the cases waiting to get into the hopper.
Measure twice, cut once. Wear eye pro and breathing mask when cutting anything with the dremel. Wear a mask when cutting or sanding MDF as well. The stuff is laden with products that have been known to cause cancer in not just California for once, but everywhere. Medium Density Fiberboard
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Post by spartan260 on May 4, 2015 19:36:37 GMT -7
Thanks, I will keep posting pics here as I make progress. I'm not in any hurry so don't hold your breath.
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