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Post by jc91087 on May 7, 2018 7:55:42 GMT -7
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Post by mjsteege on May 8, 2018 7:52:09 GMT -7
Very good article. I always use the lee factory crimp die but wondering if that might be a waste of time. What do you think and whats the best way to set up the lee die.
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Post by Admin on May 8, 2018 16:48:26 GMT -7
Personally I am not sold on the Lee crimp die. Look into an RCBS, Hornady or Lyman I think you would be better served. It is an extra step in the load process but well worth the extra few seconds.
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Post by jc91087 on May 8, 2018 18:17:02 GMT -7
I think the only real advantage to the Lee crimp die is the adjustment knob. I could see it be useful when adjusting your crimp just right. I don't really touch my crimp die once I have it set though and I'm just using the factory die that came with my 550b.
Now that Lee U-Die is a whole other story. Best Die ever.
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Post by mjsteege on May 8, 2018 21:11:26 GMT -7
Are the rcbs hornady and lyman dies the seating and crimp dies that come with the set or are they something different
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Post by Admin on May 9, 2018 3:38:48 GMT -7
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Post by mjsteege on May 10, 2018 10:13:47 GMT -7
Going to try the lee u-die. What is the difference between the lee factory crimp die and the other crimp dies?
Thanks for the info.
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Post by Admin on May 10, 2018 11:34:06 GMT -7
Not at all familiar with Lee products. What is the problem you are having which you hope to solve, or are you just looking to do it one better?
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Post by mjsteege on May 10, 2018 14:19:50 GMT -7
Bridger bought a used springfeild 1911 in 9mm. I tested my reloads for my glock in his gun they drop in but wont turn. The col is correct. So i increased the crimp and they fit fine but i think it is to much crimp and will deform the bullet and afect accuracy. Not sure if i should just go with the crimp or his chamber is just tight and use the lee u die. Havent had time to test. So dont know if it will even affect accuracy.
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Post by Admin on May 10, 2018 17:34:44 GMT -7
What do you mean by won’t turn? You mean it won’t rotate in the chamber? Are you coming out for the defensive shoot Saturday? I could bring a few of my 9mm reloads that I taper crimp and see if they function in the 1911.
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Post by mjsteege on May 11, 2018 8:39:55 GMT -7
Yes wont rotate in the chamber. Unless work calls i should be there Saturday.
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Post by mjsteege on May 15, 2018 21:59:45 GMT -7
Thanks Glen, I figured out the problem my col was off about .05 to long
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Post by roadking on May 18, 2018 10:28:50 GMT -7
I found the article interesting. I have been fooling around with my tapper crimp a lot lately mainly due to shooting the 9mm PCC. When I first put my PCC’s together I was getting some setback when chambering my regular reloads that worked just fine in my Gen 4 Glock. I ended up loading them shorter and adding more tapper crimp. This has resolved any setback issues I was having.
The article made me curious as to just how much difference the extra crimp was making on my rounds due to the tapered shape of the 9mm round. I do get and agree with the theory of tightening a hose clamp around something made of material that is malleable. Anyways, I decided to test the effect of tapper crimp on bullet retention and setback on my rounds.
I started out by getting a 10 ton hydraulic short body ram and a 0 to 300 PSI oil, water, gas gauge. I used compressed air to extend the ram fully. I then filled the void with hydraulic fluid making sure to get all the compressible air out. This gave me a measuring device to measure pressure. For this test I am not concerned about converting PSI to LBS as I simply want to know more or less pressure. I could convert to LBS but that would involve math and pie. The small hydraulic ram fits on top of my single stage press ram nicely. To measure setback or pressure needed to push bullet back into case, I could simply put bullet on top of pressure scale and raise it into bullet seating die and record measurement when the bullet started to push back into case. For bullet retention I drilled out the primer pocket in the case large enough for a small steel rod. The rod will be used to push bullet forward and out of the case. I will then use a powder through die with innards removed and a 9mm shell holder. Put the die into the press and the bullet into the shell holder placed and held up against the bottom of the die. Now the steel rod can be placed on top of the measuring device and raised into the bottom of the case up against the bottom of the bullet. Now it is possible to measure the force needed to push the bullet out of the case.
I used all Federal brass. For the light crimp I used a measurement of .380, for the heavier crimp I used .375. Bullets used were .357 lead, powder coated.
Results:
.380 crimp - it took average of 30 psi to achieve significant setback.
.375 crimp - it took average of 50 psi to achieve significant setback.
.380 crimp - it took average of 25 psi to dislodge bullet from case.
.375 crimp – it took average of 32.5 psi to dislodge bullet from case.
Those are my unscientific results. From my testing it does look like tapper crimp has an effect on bullet retention. If anyone wants to use the set up I made just let me know.
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Post by jc91087 on May 19, 2018 7:42:53 GMT -7
Bridger bought a used springfeild 1911 in 9mm. I tested my reloads for my glock in his gun they drop in but wont turn. The col is correct. So i increased the crimp and they fit fine but i think it is to much crimp and will deform the bullet and afect accuracy. Not sure if i should just go with the crimp or his chamber is just tight and use the lee u die. Havent had time to test. So dont know if it will even affect accuracy. I can only give you my experience when I switched to a match grade barrel. I was having all sorts of problems when I switched from the factory barrel in my Glock with my reloads. They either wouldn't fit in the chamber, wouldn't extract, and wouldn't turn. The first thing I found was that some of my dies weren't set up and tightened down properly. Then I found was that I was having problems with certain head-stamps in the brass. Some people just load one head-stamp at a time and is probably best for consistency. But I just cull the head-stamps that I have problems with and don't worry about separating them. The last thing I did was start to use a Lee undersize sizing die. I've found that when I use a traditional sizing die that I will get failure to extracts and rounds that don't fit flush in the barrel. When I go back to the Lee U die, I don't have those problems anymore. I don't even bother case gauging my ammo anymore. I should add that there are some lines of thought out there questing the usefulness of the U-die and if it really does what it claims too. All I know is that if I don't use it, my ammo will not be reliable anymore. I also have some buddies that are engineers and into shooting really small groups with all types of handguns. They all swear by the U-die. YMMV |
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